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Midyat: reconciling the past


The old town in Midyat, with church towers dotting the horizon

Our next wander on the Tulip Trip was among the stone houses once and maybe still belonging to families of Syriac/Suryani Christians – not to be confused with residents of Syria. Many of those who survived the horrors of World War I […]

Sink or Swim

“I’m Kurdish. What do you know about the Kurds?” the attractive man at the sidewalk café asked me. Scrambling for a witty response, I said the first thing that popped into my travel-weary head.

Uzbek rings of folkdancers by CS Bayar “Lonely Planet says not to talk about the Kurds while I’m here in Turkey. […]