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Ghosts in the doorways

Derik, Mardin Province, Southeastern Turkey

After Job and Viransehir, our Turkish Tulip Trip meandered even more decidedly off the beaten path for one more day. We arrived in Derik, a short jaunt north off the international highway leading along the Syrian border from Urfa to Mardin. Derik is the home of Abit’s mother’s side […]

The key to paradise

Wisdom in the southeast comes in many forms, even delivered in my native language. As seen parked in front of our vehicle as we left Urfa.

“But we have to take your guests there. These are very important saints. You all need a blessing for your trip. It’s the most famous place in Viransehir. […]

Parallel worlds

The world’s a small place, even here in the Napa Valley. Yesterday I helped with an annual charity event called Kitchens in the Vineyards; this year one of the homes on tour was none other than the lovely residence where I’ve been working and living […]

Sink or Swim

“I’m Kurdish. What do you know about the Kurds?” the attractive man at the sidewalk café asked me. Scrambling for a witty response, I said the first thing that popped into my travel-weary head.

Uzbek rings of folkdancers by CS Bayar “Lonely Planet says not to talk about the Kurds while I’m here in Turkey. […]